The Valsesia is the highest valley in Europe, carved by the river Sesia that rises from the glaciers of Monte Rosa, climbing from Varallo up to Alagna at 1,200 metres, at the foot of the great mountain. It is a land of Walser houses in wood and stone, of woods and waterfalls, of skiing and sacred art, still far from mass tourism. Here is where to stay best, with the small addresses we choose one by one, never by hearsay.
Where to stay depends on what you’re after. Alagna, at the head of the valley, is the base for the mountains and the snow; Varallo, lower down, is the town of art and the gateway to the valley. Let’s look at the two areas.
Alagna Valsesia, at the foot of Monte Rosa
Alagna Valsesia sits at the foot of the majestic Monte Rosa wall and is the Piedmontese gateway to the Monterosa Ski area: 132 kilometres of slopes spread across three valleys — the Valsesia, the Gressoney Valley and the Ayas-Champoluc Valley — connected to the Aosta Valley lifts over the Passo dei Salati. It is a spectacular high-altitude domain that joins two regions above the glaciers.
There is one point worth being honest about when choosing your base: Alagna is famous as a freeriding paradise, with off-piste, ski mountaineering, heliskiing and more than 2,000 metres of vertical drop. It is a destination designed above all for expert skiers, rather than for beginners or first-time families. Anyone looking for gentle slopes and a child-friendly resort can look lower down the same valley to Scopello with the Alpe di Mera, a small, family-friendly pedestrian resort. The Valsesia really does have two souls: freeriding in Alagna and easy skiing at Mera.
Beyond the snow, Alagna is one of the capitals of Walser culture: its distinctive wood-and-stone houses and high hamlets, such as Pedemonte and Riva Valdobbia, tell the story of this ancient German-speaking community. In summer the valley becomes a realm of high-altitude hiking at the foot of the giant, though the lifts open only partially in the warm season. The addresses we choose in Alagna:
Residence Kalipè
A family-run aparthotel in the heart of Alagna, a stone’s throw from the Monterosa Ski lifts, with well-equipped apartments and private parking. The convenience of having the slopes and the village on your doorstep, with the freedom of your own kitchen after a day on the snow. Ideal for families and groups who want independence and a truly central location.
Pietre Gemelle Resort
An aparthotel at Riva Valdobbia, with apartments facing Monte Rosa, a small spa, a picnic area and free parking. The space and greenery of a valley resort, with a touch of wellness and the mountains all around. Ideal for those who want quiet after the slopes, with the freedom of an apartment.
Hotel Monterosa
A family-run hotel in the centre of Alagna, 200 metres from the Monterosa Ski lifts, with sauna, restaurant and free private parking. The warmth of a family welcome and good food after the snow, in an unbeatable spot for skiers and hikers. Ideal for those who want everything within reach, without giving up the restaurant downstairs.
NH Collection Alagna Mirtillo Rosso
A four-star hotel with wellness centre, indoor pool and its own restaurant, a few minutes from the Monterosa Ski lifts. The comfort of a full-service hotel, with spa and half board, for those who want to be pampered after the mountains. Ideal for anyone looking for services, relaxation and a carefree stay at the foot of Monte Rosa.
All the small hotels in Alagna Valsesia →
Varallo, the gateway to the Valsesia and the Sacred Mount
At the mouth of the valley, Varallo is the Valsesia’s town of art and its most convenient gateway for those arriving from outside. Its treasure is the Sacred Mount of Varallo, the oldest and most monumental of the Alpine Sacred Mounts, a UNESCO World Heritage Site: a path of frescoed chapels filled with wooden statues, set in the woods above the town, reached from the centre on foot or by road (the historic panoramic cable car is subject to closures, so check whether it is running). It is a place of great artistic and spiritual appeal, perfect too for those who don’t ski.
Varallo is also a quiet, well-served base for exploring the whole valley, with its compact old centre, its museums and the trails that set off from its hamlets. The choice for those who want art, quiet and a handy location:
Dimora Fiorita Senior My Holiday Home
A guest house set in the greenery at Varallo, with a garden and rooms with panoramic balconies looking out over the Valsesia mountains. The peace of a quiet retreat a short walk from the town and the Sacred Mount, with a warm welcome and an eye for detail. Ideal for a couple seeking quiet and nature as a base for the valley.
Roccolo Valsesia
A guest house immersed in the greenery of Varallo, with a seasonal outdoor pool, a panoramic terrace and rooms overlooking the garden or the mountains. The space and breathing room of a hillside house, with the town and the Sacred Mount a short distance away. Ideal for those who want to relax outdoors after a day among art and trails.
All the small hotels in Varallo →
When to go
Winter
The snow season and Alagna’s finest hour: the Monterosa Ski area offers high-altitude slopes, legendary off-piste and the link to the Aosta Valley over the Passo dei Salati. It’s the time for expert skiers and freeriding fans, while those after easy slopes will find the gentler alternative at Mera.
Summer
The season of trails: high-altitude hiking at the foot of Monte Rosa, walks among the Walser hamlets and fresh mountain air. It’s the best time to discover the valley on foot, with long daylight hours, though in summer the lifts open only partially.
Spring and autumn
The shoulder seasons are ideal for Varallo and the lower valley: the Sacred Mount, the villages and the museums can be enjoyed at leisure, away from the crowds, and in autumn the woods light up with colour. A perfect time for those who put art, nature and quiet first.
Getting there
By car the Valsesia is reached from the A26 motorway exit at Romagnano Sesia-Ghemme, then up the SS Valsesia along the river Sesia from Varallo to Alagna. Those arriving from Vercelli or Novara take the same road. The car is the most convenient way to get around and reach the lifts, especially in winter.
For the full picture on roads, trains and getting around the region: how to get to Piedmont. On the other side of Monte Rosa lies the Val d’Ossola; the Monterosa Ski area continues into the Aosta Valley towards Champoluc, while just to the east opens the territory of Biella.
This guide is part of our grand tour of the region: discover all the destinations and areas in Where to Stay in Piedmont.
Frequently asked questions
Quick answers to the questions we’re asked most often about where to stay in Alagna Valsesia and the Valsesia.
Where is the best base to stay in the Valsesia?
It depends on what you’re after. Alagna Valsesia is the base for the mountains and the snow, at the head of the valley and at the foot of Monte Rosa, ideal for skiers and hikers. Varallo, lower down, is the town of art with its UNESCO Sacred Mount, handy for those arriving from outside and for anyone wanting quiet and culture without heading up to high altitude.
Is Alagna Valsesia suitable for beginners and families?
Alagna is famous above all as a freeriding and off-piste paradise, so it is designed more for expert skiers. For beginners and families with children, the gentler alternative in the same valley is Scopello with the Alpe di Mera, a small, family-friendly pedestrian resort, with more relaxed slopes.
What is the Monterosa Ski area?
It is one of the great ski carousels of the Alps: 132 kilometres of slopes spread across three valleys — the Valsesia with Alagna, the Gressoney Valley and the Ayas-Champoluc Valley — connected between Piedmont and the Aosta Valley by the lifts over the Passo dei Salati. Alagna is its Piedmontese gateway.
What is there to see in Varallo?
Varallo’s jewel is the Sacred Mount, the oldest and most monumental of the Alpine Sacred Mounts and a UNESCO World Heritage Site: a path of frescoed chapels set in the woods, reached from the centre on foot or by road (the panoramic cable car is subject to closures, so check whether it is running). The old town, the museums and the walks in the nature of the lower Valsesia are also well worth it.
How do you get to Alagna Valsesia?
By car from the A26 exit at Romagnano Sesia-Ghemme, following the SS Valsesia along the river Sesia from Varallo up to Alagna. Those arriving from Vercelli or Novara take the same main road. To get around the villages and reach the lifts, the car is the most convenient option, especially in winter.
