East of Genoa, the Gulf of Tigullio is the riviera of elegant villages and Liguria’s most famous stretch of sea: green headlands plunging to the water, villas, palms and the myth of Portofino. It’s a coast both fashionable and authentic, where the luxury of the Piazzetta alternates with the fishermen of Camogli and the long beaches of Lavagna. Here you’ll find where to stay best, with the small addresses we choose one by one, never by hearsay.
The gulf’s golden rule is one: you visit Portofino, you don’t sleep there. The village is tiny, exclusive and pricey, with very few rooms; the smart choice is to base yourself in Santa Margherita or Rapallo and reach it in a few minutes by bus or boat. The whole Tigullio, after all, is easily explored by train and by boat, with no need for a car.
The gulf offers different souls: the elegant buzz of Santa Margherita, the seafaring authenticity of Camogli, the liveliness of Rapallo and the quieter beaches of Chiavari and Lavagna, with the green Portofino promontory and the abbey of San Fruttuoso, reached by sea, in between. Where to stay depends on the pace and the budget you’re after: let’s look at the best villages, one by one, with the addresses we recommend in each.
Santa Margherita Ligure
Elegant and compact, with its belle-époque villas, palms and little harbour, Santa Margherita is the classic and most chic base for visiting Portofino, a few minutes away by bus or boat. It has beaches, excellent restaurants and a refined yet liveable atmosphere. It’s the ideal choice for those who want the charm of the Tigullio with every comfort within reach. The addresses we choose:
Hotel Continental
A historic four-star overlooking the bay, with a private garden, two restaurants and direct sea access. The charm of a grand old-style hotel immersed in greenery, a couple of steps from the centre and the boat piers. Ideal for an elegant stay from which to set off exploring Portofino.
Hotel Tigullio Et De Milan
A three-star in the heart of town, a few steps from the sea and the piers for Portofino and the Cinque Terre, with a small spa. The unbeatable convenience of having everything on your doorstep: boats, shops and promenade. Ideal for those who want to move around without a car and explore the gulf by sea.
Portofino
The most famous village in Liguria is a tiny jewel: the celebrated Piazzetta on the little harbour, the pastel houses, the luxury boutiques and the promontory trails towards San Fruttuoso. But the rooms are very few and the prices very high: which is why most visitors reach it on a day trip from Santa Margherita or Rapallo. In high season, moreover, the “red zones” have returned, with an ordinance forbidding stopping at the most crowded spots so as not to clog the flow. If, though, you really want to sleep in the legend, here’s the address we choose:
Albergo Nazionale
A family-run hotel right on the harbour, with a sea view and restaurants a few steps from the Piazzetta. The rare privilege of sleeping in the heart of Portofino and living it in the evening and at dawn, once the day crowds have left. Ideal for a special experience, reckoning with the village’s prices.
Rapallo
The largest and liveliest in the gulf, Rapallo has a long seafront, a small castle on the water and the historic cable car climbing to the Sanctuary of Montallegro, from which the view over the gulf is magnificent (worth checking it’s running before you go up). It’s a real city, with services, shops and plenty of train and boat connections, perfect as an affordable, well-served base for the whole Tigullio. The choice for those who want life, convenience and more accessible prices. The addresses we choose:
Hotel Italia e Lido
A seafront hotel next to the castle, with a private beach and a restaurant with a sea-view terrace. The location is splendid: Rapallo’s emblem on the doorstep and the promenade within a stroll. Ideal for those who want to wake up on the water in the heart of the city.
Hotel Astoria
A family-run Art Nouveau villa at the start of the promenade, with gulf-view rooms and a lovely breakfast. The charm of a period residence a couple of steps from the sea and the centre, with the warm welcome of family management. Ideal for those seeking character and location.
Camogli
At the mouth of the gulf, Camogli is a fishing village with unmistakable tall, colourful houses overlooking the little harbour, less fashionable than Portofino and Santa Margherita but every bit as striking. Authentic and full of charm, it’s famous for the May Sagra del Pesce, when fish is fried in a giant pan in the square, and for the boats that reach the abbey of San Fruttuoso, set in a road-less cove. The choice for those seeking authenticity and a seafaring atmosphere, a step from the train to Genoa:
La Camogliese Hotel B&B
A small hotel in the centre of Camogli, a step from the sea and the station, with air-conditioned rooms, some with a view, and a buffet breakfast. The pleasure of sleeping in the heart of the village, among the colourful houses and the scent of the harbour. Ideal for experiencing Camogli at leisure and setting off for San Fruttuoso.
Chiavari
A lively town with a lovely old centre of medieval arcades and craft workshops, Chiavari combines a wide beach, a marina and gentler prices than the western Tigullio. It’s a handy base, well served by train, with a city life that carries on out of season too, perfect for those who want sea, shopping and an authentic town. The choice for a down-to-earth, good-value stay:
Hotel Stella del Mare
A family hotel in the heart of Chiavari, 200 metres from the sea, with air-conditioned rooms and the station a few steps away. The convenience of a well-connected base, between beach and arcades, for exploring the whole gulf by train. Ideal for those who want location and careful hospitality without overspending.
Lavagna
Chiavari’s twin, just beyond the Entella river, Lavagna boasts one of the longest beaches on the riviera and one of the largest marinas in the Mediterranean. It’s the choice best suited to families and sea lovers, with comfortable beaches and moderate prices. The base for those who put the beach at the top of the plan:
Hotel Tigullio
A three-star in the heart of Lavagna, a few steps from the sea, with a restaurant, a panoramic terrace, free bicycles and a shuttle service. The convenience of a well-equipped, friendly base, perfect for beach days. Ideal for families and for those who want to cycle along the coast.
Getting there and around
The Tigullio is superbly served by train: Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, Camogli, Chiavari and Lavagna are all on the Genoa–La Spezia rail line, with frequent regional services. It’s the best way to move between the villages without parking worries. The exceptions are Portofino and San Fruttuoso, which have no station and are reached only by bus or boat.
By car you arrive via the A12 motorway tollgates, but in high season it’s best to leave it at the hotel and move by train and by sea. The boats connect Santa Margherita, Rapallo, Portofino, Camogli and San Fruttuoso, and are often the loveliest way to discover the gulf. A special mention goes to Recco, a little to the west, capital of PGI focaccia with cheese: an unmissable gastronomic stop. For the full picture on trains and connections, see how to get to Liguria.
From here, to the west, you quickly reach Genoa; to the east, on the same line, lie Sestri Levante and, further along, the Cinque Terre.
This guide is part of our grand journey through the region: discover all the destinations and areas in Where to Stay in Liguria.
Frequently asked questions
Quick answers to the questions we’re asked most often about where to stay in the Tigullio.
Can you sleep in Portofino?
Yes, but the rooms are very few and the prices very high: Portofino is a tiny, exclusive village. Most visitors choose to sleep in Santa Margherita Ligure or Rapallo, more convenient and affordable, and reach Portofino in a few minutes by bus or boat. Those who really want the village experience will find a few small hotels on the harbour.
What is the best base for visiting Portofino?
Santa Margherita Ligure is the classic, elegant base, a few minutes from Portofino by bus or boat. Rapallo is an excellent larger alternative, lively and with more accessible prices. From both you reach the village easily, avoiding Portofino’s traffic and parking problems, which in high season has restricted-traffic zones.
Which is the loveliest village in the Tigullio?
It depends on taste: Portofino is the most famous and scenic, Camogli the most authentic with its fishermen, Santa Margherita the most elegant. Rapallo is the liveliest, while Chiavari and Lavagna combine a beach with gentler prices. The beauty of the gulf is that they’re all easily toured by train and boat.
How do you get around the Tigullio without a car?
Very well: the train connects Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Camogli, Chiavari and Lavagna with frequent services, and boats link the coastal villages, Portofino and San Fruttuoso. Portofino and San Fruttuoso have no station and are reached only by bus or sea. In high season, moving by train and boat is more convenient and faster than by car.
How do you get to San Fruttuoso?
The abbey of San Fruttuoso, set in a road-less cove between Camogli and Portofino, is reached only by boat or on foot along the promontory trails. Offshore lies the submerged statue of the Christ of the Abyss. It’s an outing in itself, perfect to pair with a stay in Camogli or Santa Margherita.
