Rieti is a human-scale town, often rushed through and yet perfect for a slow stop. Here a plaque in Piazza San Rufo marks the “centre of Italy”, the river Velino runs through the centre and the Sabina all around is a land of olive groves and DOP oil. Above all it’s the gateway to the Holy Valley, with its four Franciscan sanctuaries, and the natural base for climbing Mount Terminillo. The addresses we choose one by one, never by hearsay.
The beauty of Rieti is this double nature: on one side an intimate, authentic Sabine town, on the other the starting point for the mountain and the trails. A weekend is enough to savour both, alternating a stroll in the centre with a trip among sanctuaries and woods.
The old town: sleeping in the Sabine heart
The heart of Rieti is a compact medieval centre, with the cathedral, the arcades and the riverside walks along the Velino. It’s all on foot: in Piazza San Rufo a plaque marks the “centre of Italy”, and from there it’s just a few steps to the squares, the lanes and the trattorie serving Sabine cooking. Staying here means living the town in the evening, when the lanes light up and the calm rhythm of the province remains. It’s the choice we recommend for a first time in Rieti.
Rieti is also good eating: we’re in the Sabina, land of DOP extra-virgin olive oil, and the trattorie of the centre serve honest cooking of handmade pasta and produce from the surrounding mountains. One more reason to stay for dinner rather than treat the town as a stop along the way.
B&B Beata Colomba
A self-contained studio in the historic heart, with its own kitchen, air conditioning and free parking a stone’s throw from the town’s squares. The independence of a place all to yourself in the handiest spot for getting around on foot. Ideal for a couple who want their own rhythm and everything on the doorstep.
Acque del Velino
A bed and breakfast in the heart of Rieti, with air-conditioned rooms, bicycle hire and quick access to the banks of the Velino. The right position to combine strolls in town with rides along the river. Great for those who want to get around on foot and by bike with no parking worries.
All the small hotels in Rieti →
Among nature, pilgrim trails and Terminillo
The real reason to stop in Rieti is what surrounds it. The Holy Valley holds the four Franciscan sanctuaries — Greccio, where Saint Francis staged the first nativity scene in history in 1223, and then Fonte Colombo, La Foresta and Poggio Bustone — linked by the Way of Francis, the great walking route that crosses the valley from hermitage to hermitage. It’s a strong spiritual draw, with Greccio the highlight at Christmas, when the re-enactment of the nativity fills the village. Above the town rises Terminillo, the historic “mountain of Rome”, for skiing in winter and hiking in summer, reachable in a little over half an hour by car. For those heading to the trails and the mountain, sleeping just outside town, in the green, is often the best choice:
A casa di Gianna
A bed and breakfast with a garden, a terrace and mountain views, with parking and spaces that welcome pets too. The quiet of the green a few minutes from the centre, perfect as a base for the Holy Valley and Terminillo. Ideal for those who love nature and excursions.
Rifugio Nel Bosco
A bed and breakfast set in the green on the edge of Rieti, with a garden, a panoramic terrace and a generous buffet breakfast. The silence of the woods and the good air after a day on the trail. Great for those after nature and a quiet starting point for excursions.
When to go
Spring and autumn
The best times for walking: mild weather for the trails of the Holy Valley and the Way of Francis, lovely light and woods that light up with colour in autumn. It’s also the ideal season for exploring the town and the Sabina at a relaxed pace, without the summer heat.
Summer
In summer Rieti and its mountains offer a coolness the plain doesn’t have: it’s the time for hiking on Terminillo and excursions in the green, with pleasant evenings in the centre. A handy base for escaping the heat of Rome while staying close.
Winter
The season of snow on Terminillo, with ski slopes a short way from the town, and of the Greccio nativity, which in the Christmas period draws visitors from all over Italy. In town the pace is quiet and prices are gentler.
Getting here
Rieti is reached mainly by car: from Rome you climb the SS Salaria in about an hour. It’s also the handiest way to move between the sanctuaries of the Holy Valley and to climb Terminillo, which are hard to link without your own transport. Alternatively there are coach services from Rome and the station on the Terni–L’Aquila railway.
For the full picture on roads, trains and getting around the region: getting around Rome and Lazio.
This guide is part of our grand tour of the region: discover all the destinations and areas in Where to Stay in Lazio.
Frequently asked questions
Quick answers to the questions we’re asked most often about where to stay in Rieti.
Which is the best area to stay in Rieti?
The old town, compact and all on foot, between the squares, the cathedral and the riverside walks along the Velino: it’s the choice for living the town in the evening. Those heading for the trails and Terminillo may prefer a place just outside, in the green, handier for the mountain and excursions.
Is Rieti a good base for the Holy Valley and the Franciscan sanctuaries?
Yes: it’s the gateway to the Holy Valley, with the four sanctuaries of Greccio, Fonte Colombo, La Foresta and Poggio Bustone linked by the Way of Francis. With a car it’s the ideal base for visiting them, and Greccio, with its nativity, is especially striking in the Christmas period.
Can you ski or hike near Rieti?
Yes: above the town is Terminillo, the historic “mountain of Rome”, with ski slopes in winter and hiking trails in summer. Staying in Rieti lets you reach it in a day trip and return to town for the evening.
How do you get to Rieti?
Mainly by car: from Rome you climb the SS Salaria in about an hour, and it’s the handiest means for moving between sanctuaries and mountain. Alternatively there are coach services from Rome and the station on the Terni–L’Aquila railway.
How much time do you need to visit Rieti and the Holy Valley?
Half a day is enough for the old town, but to combine the town with the Franciscan sanctuaries and perhaps a climb up Terminillo it’s worth staying one or two nights. It’s the best way to experience Rieti at a relaxed pace, without reducing it to a simple stop along the way.
