The Riviera di Ulisse — the Coast of Ulysses — is where southern Lazio is at its best: white villages perched over the sea, sandy beaches, headlands and the myth of Circe and Ulysses as a backdrop. It’s the region’s second-largest seaside cluster by number of places to stay, and each town has a different character — so it pays to pick your base well. Here are the best, with the small addresses we hand-pick one by one, never by hearsay.
The clue to the quality of the water is in the 2026 Blue Flags, confirmed for Gaeta, Formia, Fondi, Terracina and Sperlonga, and just to the north for Sabaudia. Honestly, though: San Felice Circeo lost the award in 2026, and the islands of Ponza and Ventotene aren’t among the winners — flag or no flag they remain gorgeous, but it’s only fair to know.
One practical note: this is a strongly summer coast. From June to September it’s alive and full; out of season many beach clubs, services and ferry links thin out. And if the islands are the real goal, this is the mainland you set off from.
Sperlonga: the white postcard above the sea
Sperlonga is the Riviera’s postcard: a village of white houses clinging to a spur, with lanes tumbling down to the sea and two long sandy beaches on either side of the headland. It’s the most photographed spot on this coast, and with good reason.
Below the town, Tiberius’ Villa and its grotto house the Archaeological Museum with the famous sculpture groups of Scylla and Polyphemus: myth and sea in the same afternoon. In high season the centre is traffic-limited and best explored on foot — one more reason to sleep inside the village.
The two we choose among the white houses:
Villa Maria Luxury Suites
Elegant suites in the white village, a couple of steps from the beaches and the lanes above the sea: the location that makes you want to leave the car in the garage. Refined interiors and that small-charming-address feel that suits Sperlonga so well. Perfect for a couples’ escape with the sand on your doorstep.
Hotel Aurora
A proper hotel in Sperlonga, for those who prefer the services and ease of a front desk and a ready breakfast to self-catering. Close to the sea and the centre, it’s the reassuring choice for families and for anyone who likes to nip back to the room between swims. The village’s classic comfort.
All the small hotels in Sperlonga →
Gaeta: beaches, gulf and a medieval old town
Gaeta is the most complete town on the Riviera: a long city beach, Serapo, the picturesque medieval quarter of Sant’Erasmo on the headland and, just outside, the sanctuary of the Montagna Spaccata with its cleft in the rock. Sea, history and walks in a single stay.
It’s the base we most often recommend to those who want a bit of everything without moving around much, with life picking up along the seafront in the evening. The two we choose, from the old town to the cliff:
CAIETA Housing
In the heart of Gaeta, between the medieval quarter of Sant’Erasmo and the seafront, a well-kept guest house from which beaches, lanes and fish restaurants are all on foot. Welcoming rooms and a hands-on host, the kind of base that makes you feel like a local straight away. Great for discovering the real Gaeta, the one beyond the beach.
Grand Hotel Le Rocce
A four-star set into the coast between Gaeta and Sperlonga, facing the sea with a private beach beneath the cliff: the postcard of an easy seaside stay. Terraces over the water and the services of a large hotel for those who want to truly switch off. Ideal for couples and families who put the sea first.
All the small hotels in Gaeta →
Terracina: the temple over the sea and the beach on your doorstep
Terracina combines a long sandy beach with a double centre — the seaside quarter, lively and beachy, and the upper town with the Foro Emiliano and its churches. Atop the headland watches the Temple of Jupiter Anxur, one of the most spectacular viewpoints on the Tyrrhenian, magnificent at sunset.
It’s the choice for those who want sea and archaeology together, with livelier evenings than the villages. The address we choose, handy for both the centre and the sand:
Il Grande Blu
In Terracina, handy between the centre and the sea, a well-kept B&B with the sort of welcome that makes the difference on holiday. A practical base for the beach by day and for climbing to the Temple of Jupiter Anxur at sunset, when the gulf lights up. For those who want sea and archaeology in one stay, without overspending.
All the small hotels in Terracina →
Formia: the base for ferries to the islands
Formia is the Riviera’s most practical town: a seaside city on the gulf, with a promenade, Roman villas and — above all — the port from which ferries and hydrofoils to Ponza and Ventotene run all year. If the islands are the goal, this is the mainland to sleep on.
Less of a postcard than Sperlonga, but convenient and well served by train and road. The two we choose for a base on the gulf:
La Vista Formia B&B
A B&B with a view over the gulf and a handy spot for an early-morning crossing to Ponza and Ventotene. Simple, well-kept rooms, breakfast and the practicality you need when an island is the next day’s plan. The smart base for anyone heading to the Pontine Islands without giving up the mainland sea.
Villa Maria Teresa Boutique Hotel
A boutique hotel for those who want a touch more elegance as a base on the gulf: polished interiors, hotel services and the port and station within easy reach. The right compromise between the Riviera’s sea and day trips to the islands. For couples after comfort and position together.
All the small hotels in Formia →
Fondi: the smart inland choice
Set back a little from the coast, Fondi is the smart card for the budget-minded: gentler prices, a fine old town with the Caetani castle and the former Jewish quarter, and a central position between Terracina, Sperlonga and Gaeta. With a car, the sea is fifteen minutes away in any direction.
It’s the right base for those who want to tour the whole Riviera without paying for a seafront room. The address we choose:
B&B La Dolce Vita
A welcoming B&B inland in Fondi, halfway between Terracina and Gaeta: friendlier prices and a strategic spot for moving around the whole Riviera. Well-kept rooms and genuine hospitality, with the old town and the Caetani castle a couple of steps away. For those who want the sea close by while paying a fair rate.
All the small hotels in Fondi →
From here the coast carries on towards the islands and the Circeo: if the call of the Pontine Islands is stronger, here’s where to stay in Ponza; for the side of the Circeo National Park and the 1930s “new towns”, take a look at where to stay in Latina.
When to go
Summer: the peak sea season
From June to September the Riviera is in full swing: beaches, beach clubs, evenings on the seafront and frequent ferries to the islands. It’s also the priciest, busiest time, especially in Sperlonga and at weekends: here booking ahead isn’t advice, it’s a must.
Spring and early autumn
May–June and September are often the best moment: the sea still enjoyable, the villages lively but not overrun, and gentler prices. The ideal compromise for anyone who can choose when to travel.
Winter
Out of season the coast slows down: many beach clubs close and island links are reduced. What remains are the villages, the good seafood and, in Gaeta, the Christmas draw of the “Favole di Luce” light show.
Getting there
By train the Riviera is easy: the Rome–Naples line stops at Formia-Gaeta and at Fondi-Sperlonga, with connecting buses to the villages and ports. It’s the simplest way to reach Formia if the islands are the goal.
By car you come down from Rome on the SS148 Pontina to Terracina, then follow the scenic Via Flacca that links Terracina, Sperlonga and Gaeta right along the sea. A car stays the most convenient way to move between the towns and to reach the beaches outside the centres.
For the full picture on trains, roads and getting around the region: getting around Rome and Lazio.
This guide is part of our grand tour of the region: discover every destination and area in Where to Stay in Lazio.
Frequently asked questions
Quick answers to the questions we’re asked most often about where to stay on the Riviera di Ulisse.
Which is the prettiest village to stay in on the Riviera di Ulisse?
Sperlonga for the white postcard above the sea, Gaeta if you want to pair beaches with a medieval old town and more services. It depends on what you’re after: concentrated atmosphere and lanes in Sperlonga, a bit of everything and evening life in Gaeta.
Where do ferries to Ponza and Ventotene leave from?
Mainly from Formia, with links all year, and in season from Terracina and Anzio. That’s why Formia is the most convenient mainland base if the Pontine Islands are the aim of the trip: you sleep in town and set off in the morning.
Where should I stay on the Riviera di Ulisse with a family?
Gaeta, with its long Serapo beach and the centre within reach, and Terracina, with hotels and houses near the sand, are the most convenient for children; Fondi is the budget base for touring around. Sperlonga is stunning but more compact and pricier in high season.
Does San Felice Circeo have a Blue Flag?
Not in 2026: it lost it, the only Lazio resort to drop off the list. It remains a beautiful destination at the foot of the Circeo headland, but it’s fair not to present it as a Blue Flag; always check the current status for the year you travel.
When is the best time to visit the Riviera di Ulisse?
Summer is the full season, with sea and village life; May–June and September offer great weather and fewer crowds. In high season book early: the places near the sea, often small, go very quickly.
