The Castelli Romani are Rome’s countryside: a handful of towns on the Alban Hills, among vineyards, volcanic lakes, papal villas and osterie. Romans have always come here for the day — but stopping to sleep turns the outing into a night of wine and quiet, half an hour from the capital and at friendlier prices. Here are the best bases, with the small addresses we hand-pick one by one, never by hearsay.
The quality accommodation is concentrated in three towns — Frascati, Grottaferrata and Marino — which make an ideal base camp: handy for the trains to Rome and a step from the lakes of Albano and Nemi. From there you choose your days: food and wine, nature, or the papal villas of Castel Gandolfo.
Frascati: the wine and the balcony over Rome
Frascati is the wine capital of the Castelli and the liveliest of the towns: a compact old centre around the cathedral, Tusculan villas such as Villa Aldobrandini and a belvedere that on clear evenings reaches all the way to Rome. In the evening you dine in the “fraschette”, the taverns where the Frascati DOC flows with a platter of cold cuts.
It’s the base we most often recommend: convenient, on the train line and full of life. The two we choose in the centre:
B&B Al borgo
In the centre of Frascati, with a terrace and a step from the town’s bars and restaurants: the right base to enjoy the wine town on foot, between a glass and a stroll. Air-conditioned rooms and the welcome of a small local address. Great for a first night in the Castelli, with Rome half an hour away by train.
Nineteen House
A B&B in the old town with a city view and an in-house restaurant: you sleep in the heart of the town and dine without stepping out, after a sunset on the belvedere that looks towards Rome. Air-conditioned rooms and a thoughtful breakfast, gluten-free included. For those who want convenience and cooking in the centre.
All the small hotels in Frascati →
Grottaferrata: the Greek abbey and the Tusculan villas
Grottaferrata is the most elegant of the Castelli, gathered around the thousand-year-old Greek Abbey of San Nilo, an Italo-Byzantine monastery founded in 1004 and still home to its monks. Around it, the Tusculan villas, fine restaurants and manicured countryside: a quieter, more refined mood than Frascati.
It’s the choice for those after tranquillity and a touch of refinement. The two we choose:
Locanda dello Spuntino
A four-star with an in-house restaurant, a garden and bicycles on hand to explore the area: the comfort of a proper hotel with the soul of the Castelli. A calm base close to Rome and Frascati, with good home cooking. Ideal for those who want services and quiet in the same stay.
Villa Cavalletti Appartamenti
Apartments with their own kitchen in a historic Tusculan villa, between a garden and a panoramic terrace: independence and space in an old-world setting. The solution for families and longer stays who want the Castelli as a home. Greenery, quiet and Rome within reach of the train.
All the small hotels in Grottaferrata →
Marino: vineyards, quiet and the Grape Festival
Marino is the greenest and most residential of the group, set among vineyards and famous for its wine and for the historic autumn Grape Festival (Sagra dell’Uva), when — by tradition — wine flows from the town’s fountains. A little quieter and more off to one side, it’s the right base for those arriving by car in search of calm.
The two we choose, between gardens and a pool:
Villa Giuseppe Bernabei Guest House
A guest house with an outdoor pool and a garden, with free parking and rooms facing the greenery: hillside relaxation a step from the capital. Handy for those arriving by car who want to unwind between a swim and a trip to the lakes. A good base for families and couples.
Rome Charm House
In Marino, a guest house with a garden, a terrace and a shared kitchen, a short walk from the centre: informal, well-kept and designed for those who want their own space. The home-like feel among the vineyards, with Rome very close. Perfect for couples and small groups after quiet and independence.
All the small hotels in Marino →
What to see: Castel Gandolfo, Nemi and the lakes
The best part of sleeping in the Castelli is the day after. At Castel Gandolfo, overlooking Lake Albano, the Apostolic Palace — the popes’ summer residence — and the Borgo Laudato Si’, the gardens and working farm of the Pontifical Villas, are open to visitors and reachable even by train from Rome’s San Pietro station.
A little further on, Nemi mirrors itself in its small volcanic lake and is famous for its wild strawberries and the Museum of the Roman Ships; Ariccia is the home of porchetta and the “fraschette”, with the Palazzo Chigi and its monumental bridge. All of it within the Castelli Romani Regional Park, among trails and woods. And if you’re setting off from the capital, here’s where to stay in Rome.
When to go
Autumn: the wine season
It’s the loveliest time: the grape harvest, the festivals — starting with Marino’s Grape Festival — and the colours of the woods. The fraschette are in full swing and the weather is ideal for walking among vines and lakes.
Spring and summer
In spring the Castelli are green and in bloom, perfect for outings. In summer they become the cool refuge of Romans escaping the city’s heat: a few degrees less and the evenings on the hills make all the difference.
Winter
Quieter and more intimate, with nativity scenes in the towns and hearty traditional cooking. A convenient destination even just for a weekend out of Rome.
Getting there
By train the Castelli are handy from Rome Termini: regional lines to Frascati, to Castel Gandolfo-Albano and to Velletri, in around thirty minutes. It’s the simplest way to reach the main towns without thinking about parking.
By car you climb the Via Tuscolana or the Appia; your own wheels are handy for moving between towns, for the lakes and for the wineries outside the centres. On autumn weekends, though, allow for some traffic towards the festivals.
For the full picture on trains, roads and getting around the region: getting around Rome and Lazio.
This guide is part of our grand tour of the region: discover every destination and area in Where to Stay in Lazio.
Frequently asked questions
Quick answers to the questions we’re asked most often about where to stay in the Castelli Romani.
Which is the best town to stay in in the Castelli Romani?
Frascati is the handiest and liveliest base, with the train to Rome and the fraschette; Grottaferrata the most elegant and quiet, around the abbey; Marino the greenest, set among vineyards. All three are close to one another and half an hour from the capital.
Is it worth staying in the Castelli rather than in Rome?
Yes, if you want quiet, wine and lower prices while staying close to the city: the towns are around thirty minutes by train from Rome, so you can visit the capital by day and sleep in the hills. It’s the right alternative for anyone who’d rather skip the bustle of the centre.
Can you visit the Apostolic Palace and the gardens at Castel Gandolfo?
Yes: the Apostolic Palace and the Borgo Laudato Si’, with the gardens and working farm of the Pontifical Villas on Lake Albano, are open to visitors and reachable even by train from Rome’s San Pietro station. It’s worth checking days and times before your visit.
Do I need a car to visit the Castelli Romani?
It isn’t essential for the main towns, which are well served by regional trains, but it’s very handy for moving between the villages, reaching the lakes of Albano and Nemi and the wineries outside the centres. With a car the area feels like a little itinerary.
When is the best time to visit the Castelli Romani?
Autumn is the peak, between the grape harvest and festivals such as Marino’s Grape Festival; spring is ideal for outings and summer offers the cool of the hills. In any season it’s worth booking ahead at weekends, when Romans head up in force.
