Enclosed between Portovenere and Lerici, the Gulf of Poets is one of the most romantic corners of Liguria: an amphitheatre of pastel villages, olive groves and crystal-clear sea that enchanted the Romantic poets Byron and Shelley — the name was coined in their honour. Shelley lived at San Terenzo, at Villa Magni, and Byron, by legend, swam across the gulf. Today it’s the calmest, most refined alternative to the nearby and crowded Cinque Terre. The addresses we suggest we choose one by one, never by hearsay.
The gulf offers three different, complementary souls: the elegant buzz of Lerici, the scenic charm of Portovenere and the absolute quiet of Tellaro, with coves, trails and the island of Palmaria to explore by boat in between. It’s a destination to enjoy slowly, between swims, seafront strolls and fish dinners, and it stays pleasant well beyond summer. Where to stay depends on the pace you’re after: let’s look at the three villages, one by one, with the addresses we recommend in each.
Lerici
Set on an elegant bay, Lerici is dominated by its medieval castle, the San Giorgio, and lives on a lively seafront, beaches and bars looking over the water. Nearby lie the hamlet of San Terenzo, with its beach and the Villa Magni where Shelley lived, and the romantic coves of Fiascherino. It’s the gulf’s most complete base for those who want services, sea and a bit of village life, without giving up peace and quiet. The addresses we choose:
Hotel Byron
A four-star a few steps from the sea, with terrace, restaurant and many rooms with a balcony over the gulf. The pleasure of waking up with the bay in front of you, on Lerici’s loveliest seafront. Ideal for those after convenience and a view, with the centre and the beaches within a stroll.
Hotel Del Golfo
A family-run hotel 150 metres from the sea, a couple of steps from the pier for Portovenere and the Cinque Terre, with free parking. A precious detail in an area where parking is hard. Ideal for those arriving by car who want to explore the gulf by boat.
All the small hotels in Lerici →
Portovenere
The gulf’s jewel and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997, together with the Cinque Terre and the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto, Portovenere lines up its colourful tower-houses to the rock where the scenic black-and-white striped Gothic church of San Pietro rises. Above the village looms the Doria Castle, while at its foot opens Byron’s Grotto, facing the open sea. From here boats leave for the Cinque Terre and for the island of Palmaria, a few minutes’ crossing, perfect for a day out among trails and beaches. The choice for those who want the most scenic village:
La Calata
A guest house a few steps from the centre, with air-conditioned rooms, balconies and terraces looking over the gulf. The rare charm of sleeping with a sea view in the UNESCO village, with the colourful waterfront and the boats on your doorstep. Ideal for a romantic escape in the heart of Portovenere.
Hotel Belvedere
A three-star with a panoramic terrace over the gulf, air-conditioned rooms and a staff attentive to excursions towards the Cinque Terre. The convenience of a well-run hotel facing the water, perfect as a base for exploring the gulf. Ideal for those who want services and a panorama.
All the small hotels in Portovenere →
Tellaro
At the southern tip of the gulf, Tellaro is a tiny fishing village of pastel houses, one of “the loveliest villages in Italy”: narrow alleys tumbling to the sea, the little church of San Giorgio on its rock and the coves of Fiascherino a couple of steps away. Here time seems to have stopped, and in the evening you dine at the water’s edge in the deepest silence. The choice for those seeking absolute quiet and authenticity, far from the crowds. The addresses we choose:
Locanda Miranda
A small family-run hotel 200 metres from the sea, with sea-view rooms, a garden and a panoramic terrace over the village. The warmth of an old-style Ligurian inn, in one of the loveliest and most intimate villages on the coast. Ideal for those seeking quiet and genuine flavours.
Hotel Il Nido
A three-star looking over the sea of Fiascherino, with a private beach and air-conditioned rooms across two buildings on the cliff. The luxury of having the sea on your doorstep and a private cove, in one of the loveliest bays of the gulf. Ideal for those who want a beach and tranquillity.
Getting there and around
The Gulf of Poets is reached from La Spezia: there is no direct station at Lerici or Portovenere, so from the city you carry on by bus or by boat. The sea connections (Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti) link La Spezia, Portovenere, Lerici, the island of Palmaria and the Cinque Terre during the tourist season, from late March to early November.
By car you arrive easily, but in high season the centres of Lerici and Portovenere have restricted-traffic zones and scarce parking: it’s best to check ahead and, where possible, move by sea. For the full picture on trains and connections, see how to get to Liguria. From here you’re a step from the Cinque Terre and from La Spezia, a handy and well-served base.
This guide is part of our grand journey through the region: discover all the destinations and areas in Where to Stay in Liguria.
Frequently asked questions
Quick answers to the questions we’re asked most often about where to stay in the Gulf of Poets.
Where is the best place to stay in the Gulf of Poets?
It depends on what you’re after. Portovenere, a UNESCO site, is the most scenic village; Lerici is the liveliest base, with a castle, beaches and services; Tellaro is the quietest and most authentic. All three are excellent choices, calmer and more elegant than the nearby Cinque Terre.
Is the Gulf of Poets a good alternative to the Cinque Terre?
Yes, one of the best. It offers equally beautiful villages — Portovenere is UNESCO like the Cinque Terre — but with fewer crowds, a more refined atmosphere and boats connecting everything. It’s perfect for those who want the charm of the Ligurian coast at a calmer pace, and from here the Cinque Terre are easily visited on a day trip.
How do you get to Portovenere and Lerici?
From La Spezia: there’s no direct station, so you carry on by bus or, far more scenic, by boat. The sea connections link La Spezia, Portovenere, Lerici and the Cinque Terre from late March to early November. You can arrive by car, but in high season parking is scarce and the centres have restricted traffic.
Why is it called the Gulf of Poets?
The name was coined in the twentieth century in honour of the Romantic poets who loved these places, above all the Englishmen Byron and Shelley. Shelley lived at San Terenzo, in Villa Magni, and Byron — by legend — swam across the gulf. Ever since, the bay has borne this evocative name.
