Carnia — Cjargne, in Friulian — is the mountain heart of Friuli-Venezia Giulia: a world of green valleys, Dolomite peaks and villages that have stayed authentic, where tourism is still slow and on a human scale. Here the Carnic Alps and the Friulian Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site, frame villages with strong traditions, two of which even preserve a German language of their own. It’s the right destination for those seeking nature, silence and true flavours, far from the crowds. Here you’ll find where to stay best, with the small places we choose one by one, never by hearsay.
Carnia is vast and made of many valleys, so choosing where to stay depends on your goal: Sappada for the Dolomites and skiing; Sauris and the western valleys for the most secluded atmosphere and the flavours; the Zoncolan area, with Ravascletto, Tolmezzo and Arta Terme, for skiing, spas and services. Let’s look at the three areas, one by one, with the places we recommend.
Sappada and the Dolomites
Sappada (Plodn) is a gem set at the foot of the Dolomites, at the north-eastern edge of the region: an ancient German-speaking linguistic island that became part of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in 2017, with its characteristic hamlets of wooden houses. It’s a two-season destination — skiing and snowshoeing in winter, hiking and walks in summer — with the springs of the Piave and the Dolomite trails within reach.
It’s the choice for those who want the Dolomites and a village of old-world charm. The two places we recommend:
B&B Il Nido
A welcoming bed and breakfast in the village of Sappada, with the typical warmth of mountain houses and the Dolomites out of the door. The careful hospitality makes it an ideal base for skiing in winter and the trails in summer. Perfect for a couple or a family after atmosphere and quiet.
Il Cavallino – Albergo & Appartamenti
A hotel that also has apartments in Sappada, combining hotel services with the flexibility of your own kitchen. A handy, versatile base for the mountains, suited to couples and families staying a week alike. Ideal for those who want to choose between a served breakfast and independence.
All the properties in the area: all hotels in Sappada →
Sauris, Forni and the western valleys
Sauris (Zahre) is perhaps the most striking village in Carnia: another German-speaking island, perched high around its turquoise lake, famous for its speck — the PGI Prosciutto di Sauris — and for its craft beer. Not far away, Forni di Sopra opens the gates of the Friulian Dolomites Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, among the loveliest spots for hiking and skiing in the western valleys.
It’s the right area for those seeking the most secluded atmosphere and mountain flavours. The two places we recommend in Sauris:
Hotel Garni Plueme
A garni hotel in the heart of Sauris, with the warmth of wood and the quiet of the high mountains, a couple of steps from the lake. The convenience of a well-kept base for exploring the village, the trails and the speck cellars. Ideal for those seeking an authentic retreat away from mass tourism.
Albergo Pa’ Krhaizar
An address with an old-sounding name, in the village of Sauris, among the wooden houses and the German-speaking atmosphere of the valley. A genuine retreat for experiencing the village from within, between traditional flavours and silence. Perfect for those who want to immerse themselves in the most authentic soul of Carnia.
The Zoncolan and central Carnia
Central Carnia revolves around Tolmezzo, the main town, with its handsome centre and the Carnic Museum of Folk Arts, and around the Zoncolan ski area, above Ravascletto: a mountain loved by skiers and made legendary among cyclists by the brutal climbs of the Giro d’Italia. A couple of steps away, Arta Terme offers the relaxation of its thermal waters, while valleys like the Val Pesarina — the “clock village” of Pesariis — reveal corners of a more secret Carnia.
It’s the area with the most services, a good base for both skiing and wellbeing. The two places we recommend:
Casa vacanze Ravascletto
A holiday house in Ravascletto, at the foot of the Zoncolan, with the independence and space ideal for a week on the snow or among the trails. The convenience of being close to the lifts, with your own kitchen to manage meals. Perfect for families and groups after independence in the mountains.
Casa Zarabara
A well-kept guest house in Arta Terme, the village of thermal waters, an excellent base for pairing mountains and wellbeing. The attentive welcome and the central position make it handy for skiing, walking or simply relaxing at the spa. Ideal for those after a mountain holiday with a touch of relaxation.
When to go
Carnia is a destination for every season. In winter (December to March) it’s the realm of skiing, with the Zoncolan, Sappada and Forni di Sopra ski areas, among the most genuine and least crowded in the Alps. In summer (June to September) it becomes a paradise for hiking, with the trails of the Friulian Dolomites, the lakes and the mountain pastures, and a cool climate that invites you to walk.
The shoulder seasons have their charm too: the colours of autumn in the woods and the spring bloom make the villages even lovelier. As in any mountain area, though, it’s worth checking in advance the opening of lifts, mountain huts and valley roads, which follow the seasonal calendar.
How to get there
Carnia is easily reached by car on the A23 motorway, Carnia exit, from which you climb the various valleys; a car is effectively essential for moving between the villages, scattered across the valleys. By train the reference stations are along the Udine-Tarvisio line, at the foot of the mountains, from which you continue by valley buses; the Trieste-FVG airport is a little over an hour away.
Once in the area, you move between the valleys following the valley floors and the passes. From here you can also easily reach Friuli’s other great mountain region, the Tarvisio area. For the full picture on airports, trains and roads of the region: how to get to Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
This guide is part of our grand tour of the region: discover all the destinations and areas in Where to Stay in Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
Frequently asked questions
Quick answers to the questions we’re asked most about where to stay in Carnia.
Which is the best area to stay in Carnia?
It depends on your goal. Sappada is ideal for the Dolomites and skiing, with a village of old-world charm; Sauris and the western valleys offer the most secluded atmosphere and the flavours, such as speck. The Zoncolan area, with Ravascletto, Tolmezzo and Arta Terme, has the most services and is handy for skiing and spas. Carnia is vast: it’s best to choose according to what you want to see.
What is there to see in Carnia?
Sappada at the foot of the Dolomites, Sauris with its turquoise lake and speck, Monte Zoncolan, Tolmezzo with its Carnic museum and Arta Terme for wellbeing. Forni di Sopra opens the Friulian Dolomites Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, while the Val Pesarina holds Pesariis, the clock village. It’s a land of authentic villages, nature and traditions.
Is Carnia good for skiing?
Yes. The Zoncolan (above Ravascletto), Sappada and Forni di Sopra ski areas offer slopes for all levels, with the genuine atmosphere and lower prices of the Friulian mountains. It’s an excellent choice for families and for those after skiing without the crowds, with the villages and traditions rounding out the day on the snow.
What is Sauris?
Sauris (Zahre) is a high mountain village in Carnia, an ancient German-speaking linguistic island looking onto a striking turquoise lake. It’s famous for its speck — the PGI Prosciutto di Sauris — and its craft beer, as well as for the intimate atmosphere of its wooden houses. One of the most authentic and fascinating places in all of Friuli.
Do you need a car to visit Carnia?
Yes, a car is practically essential: Carnia’s villages are scattered across the valleys and bus connections, while they exist, don’t cover everything with the same convenience. You arrive on the A23 motorway (Carnia exit) and climb the valleys. Once in the area, having a car lets you move freely between Sappada, Sauris, the Zoncolan and the other villages.
